The Dordogne

Driving north through France from Spain, we stopped in Carcassonne, which is a very well preserved, fortified medieval city. It has two outer walls with towers and a castle with draw bridges. Within the walls are narrow, cobbled lanes and loads of tourist shops and restaurants. It was very busy but interesting place and worth the stop.

Our next campsite was in the Dordogne, which is a river valley full of rich history and rolling countryside. The region is sometimes known as the land of 1,000 châteaux because of the abundance of historic castles. The Dordogne is also celebrated for its plethora of historic sites and caves. We visited Grotte de Grand Roc, a cave full of other-worldly crystals (stalactites and stalagmites for you Meade-like people) and a rock shelter originally occupied by the Cro-Magnon people. We were unable to visit the famous cave paintings at Frotte de Lascaux and others due to long waits, but knowing that they were there was pretty cool.

We also visited the town of Sarlat-la-Caneda, which is a picturesque tangle of honey-colored buildings, alleyways and secret squares. The town also boasts some of the best preserved architecture we have seen—very beautiful. As we were walking through the cobblestone, narrow alleyways, I explained to Linnea how there is nothing like this in the United States, and she asked why not? I began to explain how Europe began building cities much earlier than in the US, etc. and she looked at me and said, “that is because they were all still sleeping in America!” (Just like you guys are always sleeping when we try to call!).

Our campsite was near the village of La Roque Gageac, a jumble of amber colored buildings crammed into the cliff above a curve in the river Dordogne. It is one of France’s official Beaux villages (beautiful villages). We spent a day canoeing down the River Dordogne, passing this village and others, which was a highlight of our entire trip for sure. Linnea and Aaron loved to help paddle (which was sometimes not counter-productive) and watch the dragonflies flit across the water. We meandered past numerous perfectly preserved medieval castles, some perched on green hilltops and others looming over quanit villages tucked into the cliff sides. We were fortunate in that it only rained a few drops, and we happened upon some excellent camembert cheese and warm baguette at a pit stop.

The Dordogne region is also known for its Foie Gras, which is goose liver. Nearly every restaurant, fancy shop and road side stop sells it. We bought some, (just one liver instead of a mixture which is supposedly better) and it was quite tasty on a little baguette. Linnea and Aaron (amazingly) loved it!